Breaking down Cartier’s Santos-Dumont limited editions inspired by aviation

When Cartier introduced the Santos-Dumont timepieces powered by quartz movements last year, it looked set to complement the existing Santos collection.

Named after Brazil’s aviation pioneer, Alberto Santos-Dumont, the maison’s founder Louis Cartier first created the Santos-Dumont in 1904 as a timekeeping companion while in flight for his industrious friend. In essence, the Santos-Dumont might have been the world’s first pilot’s watch, even though its elegant and slim profile may not instantly remind one of such, especially when compared to today’s contemporaries. At Cartier Watchmaking Encounters, not only did Cartier unveil three XL models of the Santos-Dumont fitted with manual-winding movements, it also presented four highly exclusive limited editions. With the accelerated development, it seems Cartier has high hopes for the Santos-Dumont collection and this year appears to be the year the collection is growing into its own.  

Last year’s Santos-Dumont, available in large, whose case measures 43.5mm x 31.4mm, and small at 38mm x 27.5mm, was built on versatility where the watch regardless of its size would look impeccable on either gender. Without overtly masculine or feminine, it was easy on the eye but just as effortless to own with a quartz movement that can last up to six years before a replacement of its battery needs to be sought. The XL models, however, have an entirely unique disposition. Boasting a case dimension of 46.6mm x 33.9 mm, few individuals have the right wrist to pull it off. Size does matter here. For those who are undaunted, case materials in 18k pink gold, 18k pink gold and steel, and steel await. They are powered by the in-house 430 MC manual-winding movement, which unlike a quartz or an automatic movement, requires more nurturing and care. With 38 hours of power reserve, you are expected to wind the watch almost on a daily basis. It is perhaps why a manual-winding watch is often regarded as a connoisseur’s watch. 

Similarly, the four limited editions are destined to be collectors’ items where each of them celebrates the creations of Santos-Dumont, the visionary. On each caseback, a sketch of Santos-Dumont’s original plans is engraved to join the dots of the historical relationship between man and skies.  

Made of platinum and paired with a silvered dial, the Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil” pays homage to Santos-Dumont’s very first flying machine Le Brésil. Unveiled on 4 July 1898, according to the aviator, he regarded the consequential design as the smallest yet the most beautiful. It would spawn a series of airships numbered one to 22 between 1898 and 1909, as the world watched on in anticipation. 

The watch itself is a statement of intent as platinum is perhaps the most precious of all precious metals used in watchmaking, where it is sporadically found on exclusive commemorative pieces. The case measures 43.5mm x 31.4mm. The crown is further adorned with a ruby, which only a handful of select Cartier watches are blessed with. Equipped with an in-house 430 MC manual-winding movement, the Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil” is limited to 100 pieces and paired with a grey alligator leather strap. 

The second limited edition, the Santos-Dumont “La Baladeuse” exudes vintage charm as Cartier complements its 18k yellow gold case with a champagne dial to bring out a soft glow, further elevated by the green patinated alligator leather strap. The case is identical to the large model at 43.5mm x 31.4mm, wherein beats the in-house 430 MC manual-winding movement. The crown is set with a sapphire cabochon, complementary to its blued hands. A total of 300 numbered examples are produced.  

Named after the single seater intended for Santos-Dumont’s personal use, La Baladeuse was a demonstration of the benefit of having a private flying machine to commute in urban areas. Santos-Dumont crossed the Parisian skies in 1903 in this airship.

The Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle”, powered by the in-house 430 MC manual-winding movement, is available in 30 numbered pieces. Each is presented in an exquisite lacquered maple wood box whose interiors are sumptuously lined with linen canvas and Chamel Eco Black. The box has dedicated compartments for a brown alligator leather travel pouch, which is especially useful if you travel with more than just the watch on your wrist, and rhodiumised 18k white gold and red tiger eye cufflinks to dazzle. As for the watch itself, it comes with two strap options – a dandy made-to-measure Panama-weave fabric strap and a classic brown alligator leather strap.  

By Justin Ng

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